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The Runway Moments That Shaped Arab Fashion’s Global Rise

From the shimmering silks of Elie Saab to Zuhair Murad's dazzling beadwork, here are some of the most defining runway moments by Arab designers.

Salma Abdelsalam

The Runway Moments That Shaped Arab Fashion’s Global Rise

In July 2025, Rami Al Ali became the first Syrian designer to officially present a collection at Paris Haute Couture Week. His show, Guardian of Light, featured long pleated dresses in pastel tones, finished with embroidery and embellishments that reflected both personal vision and national narrative. It was a debut shaped by precision, not theatrics — and a first that placed Syria on the official haute couture calendar.

Earlier, in 2024, Elie Saab staged 1001 Seasons of Elie Saab in Riyadh, marking his 45th anniversary with over 300 looks styled by Carine Roitfeld. The show included live performances and a moment of fashion déjà vu: Halle Berry in the same Saab gown she wore to the 2002 Oscars. Gulf-based Ashi Studio, meanwhile, joined the official Paris Haute Couture calendar in 2023 — the first label from the region to do so.

These runway moments span nearly two decades, each distinct in context and form. From Tony Ward’s steel masks to Kaf by Kaf’s robot model and Okhtein’s alabaster-inspired bustier for Balmain, they register a varied timeline of appearances across global stages. What connects them is not a single aesthetic or movement, but their role in shaping how and where Arab designers are seen.

Rami Al Ali | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2025

Syrian designer Rami Al Ali became the first from his country to officially present at Paris Haute Couture Week with his Fall/Winter 2025–2026 collection, Guardian of Light. The show blended delicate pleats, soft pastels, and intricate embroidery, drawing from themes of cultural continuity and cautious optimism. His debut reflected both technical mastery and a personal lens on Syria’s evolving identity.

Tony Ward | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2025

Tony Ward’s Fall/Winter 2025–2026 show was anchored in concept: steel masks, masquerade references, and hours of embroidery that challenged conventional show formats. With pieces requiring up to 700 hours of handwork, the show emphasized the atelier’s technical capacity while playing with theatrical form.

Kaf by Kaf | Riyadh Fashion Week, 2025

The Saudi label’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection included a first-of-its-kind robot model on the runway. Conceptual and experimental, the collection questioned aesthetics and beauty standards in the context of evolving technology—blurring fashion and futurism.

Elie Saab | ‘1001 Seasons of Elie Saab,’ Riyadh, 2024

Held in a purpose-built venue in Riyadh, this anniversary show marked 45 years of Elie Saab’s design career. Over 300 looks styled by Carine Roitfeld celebrated the designer’s enduring impact. The event also revisited a defining pop culture moment: Halle Berry wore a recreation of the gown she debuted at the 2002 Oscars, the first time Saab's work appeared on that stage.

Ashi Studio | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2023

With a background in architecture, Ashi Studio became the first Gulf-based label to present at Paris Haute Couture Week. The brand’s sculptural approach offered a new aesthetic language within the couture space—rooted in the Gulf, but speaking to broader conversations about form and fashion.

Okhtein x Balmain | Paris Fashion Week, 2022

While Okhtein hasn’t yet staged a solo runway presentation, its collaboration with Balmain for SS23 marked a notable moment. The Egyptian brand’s alabaster-inspired bustier, part of Olivier Rousteing’s collection, offered a rare instance of Egyptian craft entering the high-fashion circuit through a global platform.

Rami Kadi | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2019

Inspired by post-war Beirut, Kadi’s Mosaic of Dreams reinterpreted themes of destruction and regrowth. The use of laser-cut fabrics and iridescent embroidery demonstrated a commitment to innovation, making it one of his most technically ambitious collections.

Georges Hobeika | Paris Fashion Week, 2018

A collection inspired by ancient Greece, Hobeika’s work featured soft metallics, classical drapery, and mythological references. His steady presence in Paris continued a legacy of Lebanese designers participating in global fashion weeks with an emphasis on storytelling through form.

Temraza | New York Fashion Week, 2016

Farida Temraz’s Rise of the Pharaohs debut at New York Fashion Week in 2016 brought Egyptian couture into sharp international focus. The moment followed a first-place win at Paris Fashion Week in 2014 and paved the way for a series of milestones  and red carpet appearances at the Oscars, Emmys, Grammys, and Cannes.

Abed Mahfouz | Rome Haute Couture Week, 2013

This collection, featuring iridescent pastels and classic silhouettes, reinforced Mahfouz’s place in the landscape of Lebanese couture. By participating consistently in European shows, he helped anchor Middle Eastern couture within the broader dialogue of international fashion.

Rami Kashou | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, 2007

As a finalist on Project Runway Season 4, Palestinian-American designer Rami Kashou brought his work to New York Fashion Week. His collection, presented during the show’s finale, introduced mainstream audiences to Arab design, expanding visibility in American fashion media.

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