Cairo According to: Ma-Beyn

It’s been a year since Egyptian-Palestinian artist Mariam Shaath, better known as Ma-Beyn, dropped her self-titled debut album. As in the name, her work lives between her identities: her Cairo-raised, Gaza-bred (from her dad’s side), Leeds-educated world. This mix means a Ma-Beyn track is often kaleidoscopic in nature, drawing inspiration from Soad Hosny, Nizar Qabbani or Little Simz, blending Egyptian slang and the endless pride of Palestinian Arabic.

When we asked her how she sees Cairo, she reached into the archive of her aunt, veteran photographer Randa Shaath, and chose images that capture the city through her eyes. Here, Ma-Beyn writes a poetic tribute to Qasr El Nile Bridge, clues us in on a hidden gem in the depths of Garden City, and convinces us that sometimes a night out is better spent at home.

What’s a place that means Cairo to you?

كبري قصر النيل

شافني بعيّط من شباك العربية

وبمشي في الطراوة

وبتشوي من الشمس

و بتفادى العربيات على السكوتر

وشاف القاهرة وهي بتحب

وبتزف عرسان

وبتهتف للكورة

وراكبة الحنطور

شاف

حلاوة البدايات وخيبة الأمل

Qasr El Nile Bridge.

It’s seen me crying from the window of a car, walking in the fresh breeze, grilling under the sun, and dodging traffic on a scooter. It’s seen Cairo in love, brides on their zaffa, fans cheering for football, and horse-drawn carriages. It’s seen the sweetness of beginnings and the disappointment of hope.

Complete the following: Cairo is…

في القاهرة, بدور عليا بين التراث و البيلبوردات

Where I search for myself between the heritage and the billboards.

Tell us about your neighbourhood.

منطقة هادية بليل و هيصة الصبح. عندي كلاب كتير في العمارة عملين طاقة حلوة. بحب اني اقدر اتمشى للفكهاني و المكوجي و النيل قريب.❣️

It’s calm at night and a circus in the morning. There are lots of dogs in the building, which keeps the energy positive. I like that I can walk to the fruit-seller and the dry cleaner, and the Nile is close.

Your go-to food spot?

طبيخ كامولا

Kamola’s (@kamo_llaa) cooking.

Your go-to café?

قعدة البيت تكسب معانا

Staying at home.

Your go-to date spot?

يا نطبخ في البيت و نتفرج على فيلم يا نروح معرض أو متحف أو حاجة ثقافية و نتفلسف

Either we cook at home and watch a film or we go to an exhibition or music or something cultural and philosophize.

What isn’t a Cairo landmark but should be?

سينما الشعب جاردن سيتي

التذكرة ب٤٠ جنيه

و مُكيّفة و زي الفل

Cinema El Shaab in Garden City. A ticket is 40 EGP and it’s air-conditioned and wonderful.

Tell us a song that feels like Cairo.

زحمة يا دنيا زحمة

مثلت القاهرة في السبعينات وما زالت بتمثلها

Zahma Ya Donia by Ahmed Adaweya.

It symbolized Cairo in the 70s and still symbolizes it today.

What's a place in Cairo you wish you could revisit for the first time?

Greek Club.

بحبه جدا بس خلاص زهقت منه. نفسي انساه وارجع اكتشفه تاني.

I love it so much but I’ve grown bored of it. I wish I could forget it and then re-discover it.