Ever since the launch of London-based Egyptian-Iraqi label Suez in 2021, the brand has been playing with characteristically Iraqi and Egyptian patterns. It started with their keffiyeh sets and bucket hats, after which they dabbled with Egyptian tentmakers’ khayamiyya. In past collections, the patterns were sourced from Arab sellers, often from their countries of origin, while production remained London-based - but this capsule collection was brought to fruition entirely in Egypt.

For the past six months, Serag El Meleigy has been working closely with Egyptian artisans on creating eight one-of-one khayamiyya pieces locally. “It feels like a new exciting chapter for Suez - we’re getting to celebrate Egyptian textiles and craft,” El Meleigy tells SceneStyled, “We’ve explored workshops all over Cairo. All these places are little wonderlands to explore, whether that be the Khayamiya or steel workshops, or the pearl workshops that make the pearl boxes and chessboards.”
The khayamiyya jackets, all wildly different from each other, are each made from 2.5m by 1m khayamiyya wall hanging. The centre of the geometric shape is made into the pattern for the back while peripheral material is used for the sleeves, and the space in between is filled with whatever fabric best suits each individual khayamiyya, be that cotton drill or leather. The khayamiyya is handmade by local Egyptian craftsmen, and then carefully assembled into a garment by El Meleigy. Each individual jacket is, as a result, completely unique.

“Whenever I visit, I see about 30 new patterns that I’d like to incorporate or reference. And then there are so many possibilities when it comes to how you incorporate the khayamiyya, whether that’s placement, the style of garment or fabrication. All of this will take years to explore fully and it is something I can’t wait to delve further in.”Primarily a celebration of Egyptian craft, Suez’s khayamiyya collection is born out of an intimate relationship with the artisans themselves, including artisan Esaam Ali, as well as Ahmed Hasher, and his father Ashraf Hashem.

Even the documentation process of this capsule collection was done locally through a collaboration with Egyptian photographer Ebrahim Bahaa, whose work El Meleigy still regards with loyal regularity. The collection was intimately photographed in the building where El Meleigy’s family lives.El Meleigy hopes to continue working with Egyptian artisans on future projects, too. “We have been put in touch with some other artisans, whom we cannot wait to work with - natural dyers in Alexandria, hand stitchers in Siwa, patchworkers in Manshiyat Naser. A lot of hands have been extended to help us on this journey.”